India 8 - Varkala, Kerala

Varkala, Kerala, India

Monday 5th to 15th December, 2011

Leela's Emporium

Completed our Christmas shopping today at Leela's stall on Varkala Cliff where bought sarongs and scarves for son and daughter, brother and sister, niece and nephews, and friends. We wrapped them up each with a card, and had them packaged and sent express to UK to, hopefully, arrive before Christmas Day where this package from us from India will be opened by all of them at home.

CP, the receptionist at Hotel Green Palace, suggested that we go to a “10 Elephant Festival” so we set off at 5pm to board a coach with other westerners to go to a small town we never got the name of to be part of a mass religious event-cum-fair at the junction of of two busy main roads towards Trivandrum. It is a small world and Bristol really has few degrees of separation – at the bus we recognised Mary and Maureen from Totterdown and Bedminster, where we live in Bristol! 

As well as thousands of excited Keralans of all ages dressed in a riot of colour, there were indeed ten elephants lined up in two sets of five either side of the entrance to a temple with a huge male in the middle of each. They were temple elephants, trained for just such an occasion, painted, decorated, and manacled, each with their own devoted Mahut. 

Drum 'n' Horn

There were three young men atop each and dressed in white and gold and brandishing big white feather fans in a syncopated fashion whist teams of drummers and trumpeters provided a wall of musical noise and a loud amplified commentary was periodically drowned out by salvos of firecrackers. The elephants stood placidly munching coconut leaves and regarded the crowds, traffic, dust, heat, flies and camera flashes with quiet nonchalance.

Set off by car after breakfast with Maureen this morning into the backwaters for a trip to Golden Island which contains a temple. After an hour 's drive we climbed aboard a canoe made from coconut palms, definitely not Bristol fashion, to be punted across a glorious lake through islands and backwaters under a clear blue sky. Peace and tranquillity. The only sounds apart from the lap of the water against the canoe was the rhythmic pummelling of coconuts as villagers on the shore extracted coir from the husks. 

The temple on the island was small but very holy (so no photos) and had 4 shrines. Whilst we were there the priests perform a puja for Krishna, emerging from his shrine with a chalice of fire which the 10 or so pilgrims passed their hands and arms through, chanted prayers, and gave offerings. Back at the canoe and our boatsman was bailing out the excess water that had seeped in during our absence. 

Maureen of the Lake

All aboard and off we slowly and quietly went. We saw many birds such as Cormorants, Bhraminy Kites, Egrets, Herons and, most spectacular, an Indian Darter which dives for fish and swims along with just its long neck above the water looking like a stick until this whole large bird burst from the water into the air and flew off. We also passed a group of young men with small hand nets who were diving down off a boat and fishing underwater. 

On the way back we stopped in a muslim area to visit a small fishing village on the beach where the fishermen were pulling in their boats and chanting a hauling song after fishing all night. John helped to pull one boat in which amused the men. Though poor and very hard working they welcomed us into their community and way of life with warmth and much humour.

Abba Crew

Tuesday 13^th December

After four relaxing, lotus-eating weeks on Varkala Cliff we say goodbye with an impromptu acoustic session at the Rock 'n' Roll Cafe with Mary and Maureen, and a slap-up meal of fish and wine at the Abba Restaurant where we had made great friends with Nepalese staff. 

Arabian Sea

Later, we joined a table of young Swedes who were noisily trying to sing some songs to a hard-to-play guitar, which soon descended into cacophony as the beers took effect on them. Perfect. The next morning we caught the train to Cochin and stayed near the airport before bidding farewell to India and catching the early morning plane to Sri Lanka.

India 7 - Cochin, Varkala & Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala

Delhi, India - 7^th Nov 2011

We returned to Delhi on a Volvo AC coach. White knuckle ride in places – best not to look. The driver did some quite scary things – especially when an elephant was on the highway crossing in front of us. That caused a bit of a sudden halt! Although Indians supposedly drive on the left everybody seems to do their own thing and anything goes as long as they keep moving. This gets interesting on the main dual and 3 lane roads, where cars and trucks and coaches travel at speed negotiating hazards such as animals, pedestrians, bikes and vehicles travelling the wrong way, with the horn employed by all as a sonic force field – thank goodness for Immodium. We arrived in one piece and felt a lot more confident this time in Delhi and took an alarming but well bargained and direct auto-rickshaw to our lovely homestay at Sham Nath Villas and a delicious dinner.

Cochin, Kerala, India - 8^th Nov 2011

Ambassador Car

Smooth flight to Cochin, stopping in Hyderabad to drop off and pick up passengers. Arrived at dusk and came out of the airport to see clean floors and an orderly desk for pre-paid taxis and not a single person begging or selling anything. Welcome to Kerala! The ride to Fort Cochin took around 40 minutes through the modern city of Ernakulam – bustling and prosperous looking. 

Arrived in Fort Cochin at a nice homestay run by a lady called Leelu and went out to eat dinner. Fish curry, wonderful tea and lovely calm atmosphere at a place called The Teapot. Particularly good tea from the Nilgiri Hills. This is a gently crumbling old port with a small tourist contingent and it is very charming and slow moving. You really notice it after the intensity of north India – plus it is cleaner.

Fishing Nets, Fort Cochin

In the morning went to to see the famous fishing nets on the edge of the beach that are raised and lowered with timber masts and stone balances to catch fish in the tidal currents as they have done for a thousand years.

The Synagogue was absolutely fascinating. Run by the small remaining Jewish community here. It was lovely to see it and read it's history in Jew Town, a very small section of Fort Cochin

Unhygenix's Stall, Fort Cochin

Went to the Dutch royal palace, unusual architecture – Indo-European and wondered at the exquisite murals of scenes from Hindu mythology and religion. Wandered down some steps to a lower ground floor room and there were more murals – all showing love scenes. A group of French women tourists arrived as we ascended the stairs and we could just hear “Ooh La La” wafting up to us.

Varkala Beach, Kerala - 10th Nov - 4th Dec 2011 

Varkala Beach

Took a lovely train journey down to Varkala, passing lagoons and rivers with scenes of waterside life everywhere. Huge long houses, up on stilts, open on all sides with high and steep coconut palm roofs to give shade and catch all the breeze. Stayed in a slightly naff hotel on the South Cliff for two nights which we had booked via the internet. So we looked around and moved to the slightly busier North Cliff and a much better hotel called Green Palace. We have sea view, fan, mosquito screen, deep covered balcony, overlooking a garden with fan palms, coconut palms and hibiscus bushes. We are a few yards from the steps to the beach and all the cafes and shops along a cliff that stands 40 ft above the sea, with the jungle behind. The perfect antidote after our weeks of rushing round and moving every one or two days.

Sundowner, Varkala

Later  . . .

It's a typical beach scene for backpackers mixed in with older people like us. Definitely not as open as the scene in Goa and really small in comparison. I go to sleep with the sound of the surf and John dreams of the fish he will choose for supper the next day (snapper, shark, tuna, pomfrey, butter fish, king fish, calamari, prawns - the list goes on) and which way to have it cooked.

Bag Travellers & Minders

We were enjoying a drink at the Rock N Roll Cafe when we were joined at our table by Joy and John from Vancouver Island. We quickly became pals for the few days they were here. We thought that bringing a small plastic toy character called Sully with us to take pictures of him in different situations and give him a parallel journey with us was fairly unusual – not so. John and Joy produced two hand made, hand painted garden gnomes, decorated in the colours of the Indian flag, complete with turbans and other clothing. One of them was called Gnome Gegi and they certainly knew how to party! It now appears that what John has dubbed 'Bag Travellers' are far more common than we imagined. One night the Gnomes and Sully were joined by a monkey called Joe from Norway and many other people have said they too have bag-travellers.

It's Only Rock & Roll

Wandered up to the People Cafe at the Helipad end of North cliff and had a fish supper that couldn't be beat, when suddenly a girl started playing the accordian and singing – really well. Her name is Kim and she's from St Werbergh's originally. A guitar was produced and she and John were jamming in no time. We were joined by another guitarist – Nikita and his girlfriend Britt, she's Belgian and he's Belgian/Russian. Everyone was in good voice and it was a good night all round. 


Next day Nikita and John do an impromoptu session at the Rock n Roll. Nikita plays fantastic lead breaks – it's all good fun. They are quite the most glamorous couple I have met in years – positively gorgeous – so having dinner with them meant we always had great service!

Mon 21st Nov

"Smooth John"

We attended a pub quiz at the Rock N Roll and gained an honourable 4th place with only us two and Susy Wild, who has been working at the Hay Festival in Trivandrum – did you know that the Keralan language is called Malayalam? By the end of the night John seemed to have a loose arrangement to go and play the next evening at the Open Mike. 

Varkala Cliff Fish Delivery

Next afternoon whilst coming up from the beach John noticed a poster advertising “Smooth John” that evening at the Rock N Roll bar. “Sounds fun, let's go: I wonder who he is?” said John. So we sauntered down – Celia saying “I think they are expecting you as a definite arrangement”. John saying “No, I don't think so, it was just a possibility - I just said that I'd turn up and play”. On arrival there was the flyer saying 'Smooth John” who will be performing and running an Open Mic tonight. John enquiring “Who's smooth John”. Celia saying “I think that's you”. John is spotted by the owner, who indeed has billed him as 'Smooth John', and he's straight up on stage. Only one other musician is around plus one singer, so it mostly falls to John to play. What? That poor shy retiring wall flower having to perform lots of songs in front of a big international, crowd who don't know him? Of course it was a great evening.



Thiruvananthapuram - 25th Nov 2011

This is where the days start to blur what with all the relaxing. 

Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple

Took a trip to Thiruvananthapuram (pronounced locally as "Trivandrum") with two charming Hamburgers called Roland and Nina, both journalists. It is a bustling city with traffic to match. First stop the huge main temple – very strict dress code for pilgrims and us non Hindus are not allowed in but we had a look through the door and admired the fantastic sculpture covering the whole building. Watching the comings and goings was fantastic. This is the temple where they recently opened a vault and discovered a vast treasure that is currently being audited. The fight over who it belongs to i.e. the Central Government, State Government, Temple, The ex royal family of Trivanduram (who run the trust for the temple and palace site). Then the debate about what should be done with it – the priests say it belongs to the temple Gods it was originally offered to and should just stay in the vault.

Temple Carvings

Next stop the old royal palace – a series of beautiful old buildings with red tiled roofs, carved ceilings and highly polished floors. The contents started well with 19^th century full size carvings of all the main Kathakali dance/theatre characters but the contents after that are poorly maintained but the building made up for it. The guide was completely mad – and you were not allowed round without one (they said), barking orders and shouting and going so fast that you couldn't linger for a moment. However, it was so hot we were fairly compliant – except when he complained that  the voluntary tip he demanded was not enough. It started raining so off to the Napier museum – a completely mad architectural blend of arts and crafts, Indo European and high Victorian – but very charming for all that – containing some exquisite Chola bronzes.

Spicemonger

We took two auto rickshaws to the Botanical gardens and zoo across town. The drivers decided they would take different routes and it was a race in which we definitely had to hang on to our hats what with the swerving and mad acceleration. We won because although the others were in front they had to do a sudden halt as cars just pull out without looking all the time, and we were able to take advantage and overtake – victory was ours – albeit with a few more grey hairs. The zoo had bears, tigers, lions and elephants. All had large enclosures to roam in.

Trivandrum Florist

Next it was the Bazaar area – very, very busy with traffic, hawkers, delivery boys and general shoppers. Not as busy as Old Delhi but nevertheless you have to take a deep breath and plunge in. Our German friend Nina had not experienced an Indian city before and she looked a bit shocked and said to John “I just need to sit somewhere for 5 minutes and take it all in”. India does this to you at first – the senses get assaulted when you leave your hotel and step into real life here. As we moved away from the main drag we passed through different areas like coir sellers, basket weavers, rope merchants, onion sellers, potato merchants and everything in between. All the shops are open fronted and raised up so you can easily see what they have for sale.

Detail of the Day: A small spice merchants shop, the usual wares on display and then behind the shop keeper a very old wooden spice chest, with about twenty drawers, simply but beautifully carved – it had been there a long time - what stories it could tell!

Diners at The Nosebag Cafe

Stepped into a Thali Cafe that has been there since the 1940s (unfortunately this included the toilets). However, you could get a full meal for 80 Rupees (that's about £1) so John and Roland ordered one each – Nina and I just watched and had a bottle of water. Roland and John were both sorry they'd eaten it later that night – but that's another story!
We finished with a visit to a branch of the Indian Coffee House chain in a drunken tower that has a spiral walkway with seats on one side as you walk up and slightly eccentric waiting staff.

Fundamental error with our return train trip; it's the rush hour and it's Friday – Oh Boy! We squeezed onto an already packed train and just when you thought no one else could possibly fit in a few more piled in just before the train left -so it was wedged upright room only. 

Beach

Varkala

 However, it was only a 45 minute journey and we were back in Varkala Beach with the sound of the sea and the bubble of semi-tourist haven that exists here. 

India 6 - Chittergarth, Bijaipur, Pushkar, Jaipur

Chittaurgarh, Castle Bijaipur, Rajasthan, India - 31st Oct 2011

Chittaurgarth Gates

Journeying across the plains watching the fields of cotton swish past (and taking the usual sharp intakes of breath, when accidentally looking at the antics of approaching, and passing, traffic) the rocky outcrop of Chittaurgarh Fort rises up to dominate the small city below it. Abandoned in the 17^th Century when the Rajput Mewars suffered a particularly bloody defeat at the hands of the Moghul Emperor Akbar, when the men rode out to death and the women walked into a burning pyre rather than be taken prisoner. It still has fantastic ruins that run the whole length of the hill.

Chittaurgarth Tank

There are 7 approach gates to go through to get to the entrance and there is a small village just inside selling pilgrim wares and some food. Still standing is the Tower of Victory built in the 1450s to celebrate a Rajput victory over a Moghul aggressor – 9 stories high and covered in carvings.

There are a set of beautiful temples – some still in use, and lots of Indian tourists and also pilgrims paying homage at the fresh water spring housed in one of them. There are many tanks and wells so water was not a problem when under siege. However, as the whole city was housed on this hill there was no area for growing crops and the fort was taken in the end because of starvation. The views around are fabulous.

Tower of Victory

Detail of the day: The guide will deliver his information to you forcefully – whether you want to hear it or not and you have to be very firm about what you want to see and what you want him to tell you – tricky when you're being English and diffident!

The magnificence and wealth that these bygone dynasties is shown clearly in the huge scale of this place with the remains of palaces containing huge halls and chambers, temples and carvings.

We moved on through slow and quiet country roads observing the rural life and the dress of the people that alters as you move through the state, for instance here the turban is larger, wobblier and often bright red.

The Bijaipur Ommmmmm

We reached the feudal village and Castle Bijaipur - 16^th century, walled, huge entrance gate and curved entrance way so that intruders would not have a straight way through. We were greeted with garlands of marigolds and a red 'tikka' put on our foreheads, drummers and pipers and led into the central courtyard. It is a very good hotel now and the owner mingles with guests at pre dinner drinks on the lawn, while being entertained with singers and dancers, before eating at tables round the swimming pool. 

Castle Bijaipur

 Although it is a hotel it is still a family home and the usual retainers and families are in evidence and that makes it laid back. Intermittent electricity and internet access can be a blessing here as people have to talk to each other instead of emailing home. We met two American women both in their late sixties who are both retired and have been teaching in Cambodia and before that one of them was in Ethiopia and they were fascinating company. To hear about their work with a VSO type organisation was inspiring.

Castle Bijaipur Courtyard

We would have liked to stay longer and explored the village and its surrounds, plus relaxing by the pool, but we only had one night and had to get on to the Camel Fair in Pushkar.

Pushkar, Rajasthan, India - 1^st Nov 2011

Camels

Thousands of camels, cattle, buffalo, oxen and horses, all for sale, spread around the edge of this small town with the sacred lake at it's centre. Of course the camel area is the first one we are drawn to – they are everywhere! Men are bargaining – very few women here. Teeth, hair, legs and temperament are being closely examined and discussions go on a long time. Meanwhile some camels are being prepared for a parade and having patterns cut into their wool. Black kohl and red dye patterns are drawn on them and the kohl is put around their eyes – so alluring! There are people here from all over Rajasthan wearing their own style of dress and jewellery and of course their special style and colour of turban. The dust created is choking and the heat is intense but you have to keep looking round as it is so interesting.

A Tourist

There is one further very special breed that visits Pushkar for the fair and that is the western tourist and we fall right into that demographic. Red of face, dripping with sweat, wearing all manner of strange clothes, and of course, hats of extraordinary design and shape. This breed gets in the way of camel and horse trading and equally is also the main trade of the hoteliers and tented camp owners round the outskirts. Thronging the bazaar at night to purchase all manner of bags, beads and boxes. They ride on camel carts all day to and from their hotels and camps. They must be a source of huge income, not to say amusement, for the inhabitants of this town. Everyone seems content with the arrangement so it's fairly relaxed – in it's own way.

A Horse

The horses must get a special mention. They are a particular breed in this part of the country. Hardy yet beautiful. Resistant to ailments and with the tips of their ears curving over at the top. The pure white ones are the most highly prized, but they come in all colours and combinations. The white ones are hired out for grooms to ride to their wedding on and the wedding season is about to start.

Pilgrims are also here as this is a religious festival too and during this time no meat, fish, eggs, dairy or alcohol are allowed in the town. The temple bells ring all the time and chanting wafts up to you constantly. Incense burns in the bazaar and the local wide-boy drug dealer, with a sensational hair cut and dark glasses, zooms up and down on an expensive motorbike in the narrow streets far too fast, delivering hash to the backpacker contingent with a flourish – very tempted to put a string across the lane as he approaches too fast and watch him tumble, however, this does not occur.

Birthday, Pushkar

Celia's 56^th birthday spent watching the sun set over the sacred lake from a roof top cafe. Small votive lights start to appear on the ghats and gradually hundreds appear as darkness falls. Meanwhile – joy of joys – the cafe owner confirms they have beer available – John ecstatic. However, you have to keep the bottle out of sight. 

Pushkar Ghats

 The waiters are watching all the time in case they get raided. Down in the street there is a slight commotion and a group of about 20 very smart young policewomen come through the bazaar and the waiters make sure all the bottles are hidden from view. The police pass on into the ghats and temples on the lake side and normal service is resumed. A young Polish man we are chatting to tells us the food is good but we saw the kitchen on the way up! The cafe is unremittingly filthy as is most of Pushkar – so Celia settles for a bottle of Sprite and and a straw and the view more than makes up for the lack of a gin and tonic.

Pushkar Camping

Our first night was spent in a hotel we had booked in the UK a couple of months back. It was dingy and unpleasant and our poor driver was put in what looked like an old stable. 

Intense

We called the wonderful Chandrashekar and asked him to put us where he would  have recommended if he was organising Pushkar and we were whisked off to a tented camp where you are reminded of colonial era military camps, with everything just so. You expect a man in uniform and a solar topee to appear at any moment. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are included and we are thoroughly spoilt for the next two days. Our driver, Vinod, also much happier with his accommodation.

Pushkar Fair Dancers

Camel races (plural) were advertised. We waited around for ages and eventually a huge entourage of cars arrived with 'The Minister', police, dignitaries and holy men – long speeches and longer blessings. Next came the troupe of school children all dressed in folk costume to dance for us. That was very entertaining and then they all sat round us to watch the rest of the events. 

Camel Race

Then the camels arrived ridden by young men and line up and they're off! Twice round the sand floored stadium and that's it. It was exciting but we wanted more, but there was none to be had.

Where's the Tunnel of Goats?

Next event was the Pushkar football team versus the rest of the world, a group of tourists volunteered from the watching crowd including a promising girl left winger. Playing on sand for the first and last time in 90 degree heat, they were soundly beaten, so we went and watched the horses being ridden up and and down back at the trading area and observed the deals being made. 

Pushkar Dawn

 There is also a fun fair with a big wheel – not going on that after seeing it being put up, the elf of safety does not visit here very often. We retreat exhausted to our tents and drink tea like lords of the desert. Woke next morning to the familiar sound of hot air balloons (they make them in Bristol) and the bizarre visual cocktail of dawn, camels, tents, palms and balloons.


Jaipur, Rajasthan, India - 4^th - 6^th Nov 2011

Amber Fort, Jaipur

A shorter journey to Jaipur – the state capital. It has a real buzz and energy about it. The Madhuban Hotel was a large 'haveli' house with a lovely garden and good rooms, run by a husband and wife team and it was gleaming. The lady of the house clearly supervised in the kitchen and the food was really good. Tea was provided on the lawn in the afternoon for the footsore tourist, was breakfast in the mornings.

A Elephant

Visited the huge Amber fort outside Jaipur – where elephants take tourists up and down all morning – it's a great site but we didn't do the elephant ride – seemed a bit daft.  Immense, imposing and richly decorated - and that's just the elephants - the fort is spectacular.  

Royal Long Drops

Particularly enjoyed being shown the royal and ancient Khasi, of the long-drop variety, that we were assured had been in use until recent times.  It certainly had the right odour to it.  It contained a royal seat in the middle and a minor throne each side for his body guards.  It was part of a bath and steam complex with a sophisticated hypocaust system.  Beautiful painted decorations adorn the entrance ways and walls, depicting flowers and birds.

Jaipur Palace

Then we went to the Maharajah's palace in the city – it covers a vast area of the walled town and he and his family still live in a big chunk of it and the rest is open to the public. Intricate mirrored walls and ceilings would have candles in many niches round the walls at night to reflect and mimic the stars – quite fabulous.

Lake Palace, Jaipur

It is very busy with tourists compared to the more remote palaces we have seen but still enjoyable. Had to ask the guide to let us look at the rooms on our own as feeling a bit beaten down by the information – he kindly obliged.


A highlight was going to Jantar Mantar Observatory. It is an open air park full of vast astronomical instruments. Built in stone with marble facing by Jai Singh in the 1720s, they calculate the movement of the planets and measure time by the positions of the sun, moon and stars. They were and are used for astrological purposes and to this day every child born in India has their own star chart.

16:05 Jantar Mantar

Celia is a Scorpio!

Delhi - 7^th Nov 2011

We returned to Delhi on a Volvo AC coach. White knuckle ride in places – best not to look. The driver did some quite scary things – especially when an elephant was on the highway crossing in front of us. That caused a bit of a sudden halt!  Although Indians supposedly drive on the left everybody seems to do their own thing . . . anything goes as long as they keep moving and don't hit each other. This gets interesting on the main roads where cars and trucks and coaches travel at speed negotiating hazards such as animals, pedestrians, bikes and vehicles travelling the wrong way, with the horn employed by all as a sonic force field – thank goodness for Immodium. We arrived in one piece and felt a lot more confident this time in Delhi and took an alarming but well bargained and direct auto-rickshaw to our lovely homestay at Sham Nath Villas and a delicious dinner.

Heron, Jaipur Lake

Jaipur 

Smoked Snacks Sir?