India 2 - Kashmir

Srinagar, Kashmir, India - 11^th - 16^th Oct 2011

We had a driver take us from Dalhousie to Jammu airport. It took around 4.5 hours and we passed through beautiful countryside, dipping into the Punjab on the way – at one point were only 10 Ks from the Pakistan border. Security was very tight everywhere with lots of guns everywhere along the way and especially in Jammu. Our luggage was x rayed twice at the airport and then once when it was checked through. We then had to go and identify it on the tarmac before they would load it. We were also screened 4 times and our hand luggage searched each time. It was a very safe flight.

Arrived in Srinagar to a bit of a hotel shortage as it was a Benali holiday and lots of tourists were visiting. However, we found a rather faded 70s style hotel for one night that was near the polo ground, but too much money. Then we went the opposite way and booked somewhere on line that looked nice but was truly gruesome round the other side of Dal lake – with mice and worse in a garish room, a hard bed with thin covers which meant we were cold at night, plus a strange pushy old owner who wanted to take us to all these places we didn't want to go and part us from our money – we ended up as his status trophy white people shown off to a house full of 300 men for some philanthropic feast or something. 


 We slipped away early next morning and found a nice laid back place just back from the lake for a few nights and could then start to enjoy the Mughal gardens, mountains and lakes. It was sanctuary from the hubbub with a large garden and lawn full of assorted dragonflies, and lots of eagles and kites overhead. 

Add caption

Kashmir has suffered badly from its 20 odd years of political troubles and, although many Indian tourists visit and some westerners are starting to venture there, the houseboats, hotels and attractions have a dilapidated, suspended-in-time air in need of a spring clean. The magnificent mountain and lake scenery does not change, however, and it is well worth the struggles.