India 6 - Chittergarth, Bijaipur, Pushkar, Jaipur

Chittaurgarh, Castle Bijaipur, Rajasthan, India - 31st Oct 2011

Chittaurgarth Gates

Journeying across the plains watching the fields of cotton swish past (and taking the usual sharp intakes of breath, when accidentally looking at the antics of approaching, and passing, traffic) the rocky outcrop of Chittaurgarh Fort rises up to dominate the small city below it. Abandoned in the 17^th Century when the Rajput Mewars suffered a particularly bloody defeat at the hands of the Moghul Emperor Akbar, when the men rode out to death and the women walked into a burning pyre rather than be taken prisoner. It still has fantastic ruins that run the whole length of the hill.

Chittaurgarth Tank

There are 7 approach gates to go through to get to the entrance and there is a small village just inside selling pilgrim wares and some food. Still standing is the Tower of Victory built in the 1450s to celebrate a Rajput victory over a Moghul aggressor – 9 stories high and covered in carvings.

There are a set of beautiful temples – some still in use, and lots of Indian tourists and also pilgrims paying homage at the fresh water spring housed in one of them. There are many tanks and wells so water was not a problem when under siege. However, as the whole city was housed on this hill there was no area for growing crops and the fort was taken in the end because of starvation. The views around are fabulous.

Tower of Victory

Detail of the day: The guide will deliver his information to you forcefully – whether you want to hear it or not and you have to be very firm about what you want to see and what you want him to tell you – tricky when you're being English and diffident!

The magnificence and wealth that these bygone dynasties is shown clearly in the huge scale of this place with the remains of palaces containing huge halls and chambers, temples and carvings.

We moved on through slow and quiet country roads observing the rural life and the dress of the people that alters as you move through the state, for instance here the turban is larger, wobblier and often bright red.

The Bijaipur Ommmmmm

We reached the feudal village and Castle Bijaipur - 16^th century, walled, huge entrance gate and curved entrance way so that intruders would not have a straight way through. We were greeted with garlands of marigolds and a red 'tikka' put on our foreheads, drummers and pipers and led into the central courtyard. It is a very good hotel now and the owner mingles with guests at pre dinner drinks on the lawn, while being entertained with singers and dancers, before eating at tables round the swimming pool. 

Castle Bijaipur

 Although it is a hotel it is still a family home and the usual retainers and families are in evidence and that makes it laid back. Intermittent electricity and internet access can be a blessing here as people have to talk to each other instead of emailing home. We met two American women both in their late sixties who are both retired and have been teaching in Cambodia and before that one of them was in Ethiopia and they were fascinating company. To hear about their work with a VSO type organisation was inspiring.

Castle Bijaipur Courtyard

We would have liked to stay longer and explored the village and its surrounds, plus relaxing by the pool, but we only had one night and had to get on to the Camel Fair in Pushkar.

Pushkar, Rajasthan, India - 1^st Nov 2011

Camels

Thousands of camels, cattle, buffalo, oxen and horses, all for sale, spread around the edge of this small town with the sacred lake at it's centre. Of course the camel area is the first one we are drawn to – they are everywhere! Men are bargaining – very few women here. Teeth, hair, legs and temperament are being closely examined and discussions go on a long time. Meanwhile some camels are being prepared for a parade and having patterns cut into their wool. Black kohl and red dye patterns are drawn on them and the kohl is put around their eyes – so alluring! There are people here from all over Rajasthan wearing their own style of dress and jewellery and of course their special style and colour of turban. The dust created is choking and the heat is intense but you have to keep looking round as it is so interesting.

A Tourist

There is one further very special breed that visits Pushkar for the fair and that is the western tourist and we fall right into that demographic. Red of face, dripping with sweat, wearing all manner of strange clothes, and of course, hats of extraordinary design and shape. This breed gets in the way of camel and horse trading and equally is also the main trade of the hoteliers and tented camp owners round the outskirts. Thronging the bazaar at night to purchase all manner of bags, beads and boxes. They ride on camel carts all day to and from their hotels and camps. They must be a source of huge income, not to say amusement, for the inhabitants of this town. Everyone seems content with the arrangement so it's fairly relaxed – in it's own way.

A Horse

The horses must get a special mention. They are a particular breed in this part of the country. Hardy yet beautiful. Resistant to ailments and with the tips of their ears curving over at the top. The pure white ones are the most highly prized, but they come in all colours and combinations. The white ones are hired out for grooms to ride to their wedding on and the wedding season is about to start.

Pilgrims are also here as this is a religious festival too and during this time no meat, fish, eggs, dairy or alcohol are allowed in the town. The temple bells ring all the time and chanting wafts up to you constantly. Incense burns in the bazaar and the local wide-boy drug dealer, with a sensational hair cut and dark glasses, zooms up and down on an expensive motorbike in the narrow streets far too fast, delivering hash to the backpacker contingent with a flourish – very tempted to put a string across the lane as he approaches too fast and watch him tumble, however, this does not occur.

Birthday, Pushkar

Celia's 56^th birthday spent watching the sun set over the sacred lake from a roof top cafe. Small votive lights start to appear on the ghats and gradually hundreds appear as darkness falls. Meanwhile – joy of joys – the cafe owner confirms they have beer available – John ecstatic. However, you have to keep the bottle out of sight. 

Pushkar Ghats

 The waiters are watching all the time in case they get raided. Down in the street there is a slight commotion and a group of about 20 very smart young policewomen come through the bazaar and the waiters make sure all the bottles are hidden from view. The police pass on into the ghats and temples on the lake side and normal service is resumed. A young Polish man we are chatting to tells us the food is good but we saw the kitchen on the way up! The cafe is unremittingly filthy as is most of Pushkar – so Celia settles for a bottle of Sprite and and a straw and the view more than makes up for the lack of a gin and tonic.

Pushkar Camping

Our first night was spent in a hotel we had booked in the UK a couple of months back. It was dingy and unpleasant and our poor driver was put in what looked like an old stable. 

Intense

We called the wonderful Chandrashekar and asked him to put us where he would  have recommended if he was organising Pushkar and we were whisked off to a tented camp where you are reminded of colonial era military camps, with everything just so. You expect a man in uniform and a solar topee to appear at any moment. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are included and we are thoroughly spoilt for the next two days. Our driver, Vinod, also much happier with his accommodation.

Pushkar Fair Dancers

Camel races (plural) were advertised. We waited around for ages and eventually a huge entourage of cars arrived with 'The Minister', police, dignitaries and holy men – long speeches and longer blessings. Next came the troupe of school children all dressed in folk costume to dance for us. That was very entertaining and then they all sat round us to watch the rest of the events. 

Camel Race

Then the camels arrived ridden by young men and line up and they're off! Twice round the sand floored stadium and that's it. It was exciting but we wanted more, but there was none to be had.

Where's the Tunnel of Goats?

Next event was the Pushkar football team versus the rest of the world, a group of tourists volunteered from the watching crowd including a promising girl left winger. Playing on sand for the first and last time in 90 degree heat, they were soundly beaten, so we went and watched the horses being ridden up and and down back at the trading area and observed the deals being made. 

Pushkar Dawn

 There is also a fun fair with a big wheel – not going on that after seeing it being put up, the elf of safety does not visit here very often. We retreat exhausted to our tents and drink tea like lords of the desert. Woke next morning to the familiar sound of hot air balloons (they make them in Bristol) and the bizarre visual cocktail of dawn, camels, tents, palms and balloons.


Jaipur, Rajasthan, India - 4^th - 6^th Nov 2011

Amber Fort, Jaipur

A shorter journey to Jaipur – the state capital. It has a real buzz and energy about it. The Madhuban Hotel was a large 'haveli' house with a lovely garden and good rooms, run by a husband and wife team and it was gleaming. The lady of the house clearly supervised in the kitchen and the food was really good. Tea was provided on the lawn in the afternoon for the footsore tourist, was breakfast in the mornings.

A Elephant

Visited the huge Amber fort outside Jaipur – where elephants take tourists up and down all morning – it's a great site but we didn't do the elephant ride – seemed a bit daft.  Immense, imposing and richly decorated - and that's just the elephants - the fort is spectacular.  

Royal Long Drops

Particularly enjoyed being shown the royal and ancient Khasi, of the long-drop variety, that we were assured had been in use until recent times.  It certainly had the right odour to it.  It contained a royal seat in the middle and a minor throne each side for his body guards.  It was part of a bath and steam complex with a sophisticated hypocaust system.  Beautiful painted decorations adorn the entrance ways and walls, depicting flowers and birds.

Jaipur Palace

Then we went to the Maharajah's palace in the city – it covers a vast area of the walled town and he and his family still live in a big chunk of it and the rest is open to the public. Intricate mirrored walls and ceilings would have candles in many niches round the walls at night to reflect and mimic the stars – quite fabulous.

Lake Palace, Jaipur

It is very busy with tourists compared to the more remote palaces we have seen but still enjoyable. Had to ask the guide to let us look at the rooms on our own as feeling a bit beaten down by the information – he kindly obliged.


A highlight was going to Jantar Mantar Observatory. It is an open air park full of vast astronomical instruments. Built in stone with marble facing by Jai Singh in the 1720s, they calculate the movement of the planets and measure time by the positions of the sun, moon and stars. They were and are used for astrological purposes and to this day every child born in India has their own star chart.

16:05 Jantar Mantar

Celia is a Scorpio!

Delhi - 7^th Nov 2011

We returned to Delhi on a Volvo AC coach. White knuckle ride in places – best not to look. The driver did some quite scary things – especially when an elephant was on the highway crossing in front of us. That caused a bit of a sudden halt!  Although Indians supposedly drive on the left everybody seems to do their own thing . . . anything goes as long as they keep moving and don't hit each other. This gets interesting on the main roads where cars and trucks and coaches travel at speed negotiating hazards such as animals, pedestrians, bikes and vehicles travelling the wrong way, with the horn employed by all as a sonic force field – thank goodness for Immodium. We arrived in one piece and felt a lot more confident this time in Delhi and took an alarming but well bargained and direct auto-rickshaw to our lovely homestay at Sham Nath Villas and a delicious dinner.

Heron, Jaipur Lake

Jaipur 

Smoked Snacks Sir?