Queenstown to Dunedin
We
are leaving Queenstown today and heading to Dunedin at the suggestion
of our friend Christine's sister, Keri, who we met in town for coffee
and info. We headed out of town and up into the hills, stopping at a
lookout point just before the pass to leave this area. Looking back
you see the Remarkables, snow-capped and very distinctive mountains,
on the other side of the valley.
Wednesday 23rd May 2012
We
are leaving Queenstown today and heading to Dunedin at the suggestion
of our friend Christine's sister, Keri, who we met in town for coffee
and info. We headed out of town and up into the hills, stopping at a
lookout point just before the pass to leave this area. Looking back
you see the Remarkables, snow-capped and very distinctive mountains,
on the other side of the valley.
We
stopped at Arrowtown, more of a village really. It has a small main
street, with perfectly restored or retained wooden buildings from the
early twentieth century.
Very touristy, but pretty nonetheless in a beautiful setting by a river, where panning for gold was lucrative for some years.
Very touristy, but pretty nonetheless in a beautiful setting by a river, where panning for gold was lucrative for some years.
Detail
of the Day: Everywhere we go we meet our usual bride and
groom, having their photos taken in a picturesque setting, and
Arrowtown is no exception.
There
are also the carefully preserved remains of a Chinese village from
the same period. Just a few shacks really but they are some of only
a very few clues to the life that Chinese workers and miners had at
that time. Their accommodation was on the low ground near the river,
as they were not allowed to mix with the other inhabitants and were
poorly treated.
We
stopped at Cromwell in the sunshine and took out our camping chairs
and table on a deserted look out point above the town. Before us was
the small town and the large lake it sits by. The trees were gold,
red, brown, and still green here and there. The water sparkled in
the sun and we brewed up some tea and ate a sandwich gazing out –
perfect. The whole hour we were there about two cars went past –
it is fantastic.
Drove
on through Alexandra, Roxburgh and stopped in the flat-as-a-pancake
town of Milton because we spied a high street butcher. Upon entering,
the view of the back wall behind the counter was obscured by two
enormous jolly lady butchers, wearing red striped aprons with
matching red faces and slightly wild hair. We bought Hoggett chops
(not lamb and not quite old enough to be mutton).
We
arrived in Dunedin as the sun was setting. The camp site is on the
edge of town with the sea just over the dune and of course is much
warmer than the mountains inland, so a welcome warm night in the van
after cooking up our chops in the camp kitchen.
Otago
Pennisula, Dunedin
Thursday
24th May 2012
Lumpy,
bumpy landscape (not unlike the rollercoasterish countryside of
Postman Pat) takes up the whole of the Otago Peninsula running away
from Dunedin, and it is exquisite. You can drive one way along the
lake and come back along the sea side. It was like being on Cornish
lanes but on a much larger scale, There are lots of sheep on the
hills and then vineyards in-between.
We
went to Allens Beach in the hope of seeing Penguins, but no luck. However, we had this beautiful beach almost to ourselves and were
rewarded by crashing surf and mother and pup fur seals basking on the
beach.
We watched them from a discreet distance for ages. John had to intervene when an elderly man got too close and was
charged by the mother – he shouted and clapped to distract her
whilst the man escaped. They are big and fat but can really move when
they want to.
We watched them from a discreet distance for ages. John had to intervene when an elderly man got too close and was
charged by the mother – he shouted and clapped to distract her
whilst the man escaped. They are big and fat but can really move when
they want to.
We
headed back to Dunedin through a dizzying sunset – these photos have not been re-mastered, digitally altered or tampered with in any way!
Dunedin to Te Anau
Friday 25th
May 2012
Crisp
morning and the bluest sky as we set off West on a 7 hour drive
through Balclutha, Clinton, Gore, Riversdale, Lumsden and Mossburn to Te Anau. 
We crossed over some high passes where the temperature plummeted and we went above the snowline. We had just enough time to look at the views and snap a few photos before we had to retreat back to warmth of the van. We also drove along crystal lakes all with frosted mountain backdrops. It was hard going!
Te
Anau is a small town on a big lake of the same name on the edge of Fiordland National
Park and is busiest in high summer and deepest winter because of the
great skiing here. 
We are in-between these times, so we got a great rate from our lovely host Charlene, and hardly anyone else was there, Plus, there is a big alpine style lodge with a kitchen and lounge with a great big log fire to toast yourself in front of – heaven.
Te
Anau to Milford Sound
Saturday 26th
May 2012
Our
whole reason for the big dash yesterday was to be within striking
distance of a day trip to Milford Sound and so we set off early for
the 76 mile journey through more striking scenery than you can shake
a stick at. 
Towards the end of the journey you go through a long rock tunnel and come out to the valley proper leading down to the coast – a feat of engineering in itself. This is where we first saw the Fantail birds who do exactly what their name describes! Milford Harbour is like the entrance to a Viking fiord or Scottish loch, all foggy grey mysteriousness, and was one of the only safe access points inland from the sea – thus the tunnel.
We
boarded a small cruise boat and went out onto Milford Sound (actually
it's a fiord but they didn't know that when they named it). Very
difficult to describe how brilliant it was to have this experience,
but we hope the pictures convey the 'wow' factor sufficiently. 
Waterfalls, foliage and seals . . . cliffs, mists and brief spells of sunshine . . . all upon dark waters that are much deeper than the surrounding mountains are high. 
The weather held whilst we were on the
Sound with patches of brilliant sunshine and a few squalls. On the way back, however, it closed in and we were glad of the welcoming log fire, where we ate, drank and exchanged travel lies of our day with our fellow guests, and of course Charlene.
Sunday
27th May 2012
A
quiet day recovering from yesterday's long trip. Even us exotic
travellers have to do the laundry, research where we go next and get
it booked, clean the van, write the blog, talk to our fellow guests,
(Maire, Tony and Maria from Christchurch), drink at the Moose pub,
cook dinner and collapse in front of the fire with a glass of Otago
wine, although we put the feeling of intoxication down to the clean
air.
Te
Anau to Queenstown
Woke
up to rain and set off back to Queenstown, as tomorrow we head off
for the west coast and the glaciers!
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| Otago, Dunedin |
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| Otago, Dunedin |
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| Milford Sound |
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| Milford Sound |
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| Milford Sound |
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| Milford Sound |
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| Milford Sound |
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| Milford Sound |
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| Milford Sound |
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